Wednesday, January 29, 2014

Wild Meat: It's There for the Taking

John Lethlean of The Australian documented, in a recent article, an experience that most hunters would be familiar with, albeit with different game. In this article John joins a pro roo shooter in the boondocks of South Australia for a midnight hunt, the bounty of which is destined for the supermarkets and restaurants of Australia.

In his article, John quite rightly highlights the benefits of eating kangaroo: it is a wild meat, harvested from animals that are the best evolved to cope with the wildly swinging pendulum that is Australia's climate. The meat is a far more sustainable source than domesticated stock equivalents. And it is a quality, lean, healthy meat; all characteristics shared with many an introduced species. (You can read all about my thoughts on the wiley old roo in my last blog here.)

But enough about the humble roo and it's sustainable, ecologically friendly and oh so delicious offerings. The point of this blog is to address something that John wrote that struck me in the face like a frying wielded with the strength of a jilted lover:
"WILD-CAUGHT barramundi over farmed stuff. Bunny from the paddock instead of the farmed creature. Wild venison over farmed deer which, unless it's shot in the field, deteriorates considerably under the stress of herding and transport to the abattoir, I'm told.

You get the point. Wild protein is impossible to beat. But, the way I figure it, wild food will increasingly become an almost unaffordable luxury for the next generation."
An unaffordable luxury eh? Last time I checked my deep freezer I still had about 10kg of fine quality, wild sourced venison. If I need a rabbit for the pot there are any number of paddocks to source one from. And with the recent redeclaration of State Forests in NSW, sourcing wild protein has become all the more realistic for many of the r-licensed hunters across the state.

Every day inviting images of wild caught game prepared in a rough but warmly inviting manner adorn my Facebook news feed via groups like Gourmet Hunters. Those responsible though are no millionaires; they are usually hunters of modest means, but with a down-to-earth attitude, an appreciation for the satisfaction that is bringing home food for your family. Alongside these delectable offerings are photos of vege gardens, herb gardens and of kids enjoying fresh, down to earth food; something that is shared with many a suburban mother or father.

Which leads me to this: with this whole slow food/locavore/organic-is-good revolution we're seeing in the gastronomic universe, it is quite surprising that there hasn't been a greater focus on the protein side of things. It has been few the number of celebrity chefs, food critics etc that have ventured into the taboo waters of hunting game for meat. Even fewer are the numbers of every day folk that have taken up the rifle or shotgun along with the shovel or hoe.

Why?

The meat is there for the taking, what is stopping you?

Homemade venison bratwurst. The venison
was sourced from a young male Sambar (deer)
taken from the Victorian Alps.